Local Development

Kelantan
Ever since songket weaving known to exist in this country, the industry developed mostly in the eastern states of Kelantan and Terengganu. In Kelantan, the weaving industry sat mostly in the villages around Kota Bharu. Historically, the weaving of kain tenun was found in Langgar. Kain tenun is plain handwoven fabric without any usage of gold motifs or pattern found in songket. Kain tenun was used during the reign of Che’ Siti Wan Kembang (1610-1677). It was during the reign of Long Pandak (1794- 1800) in Kota Kubang Labu, songket weaving existed in the surrounding village of Gerung, Tumpat.

When the reigning centre changed, then songket weaving began to spread in Kampung Laut and Kampung Atas Banggol. During the reign on Sultan Mansur (1890-1900), songket weaving industry was then developed in Kampung Penambang, which is about 4 km from the town of Kota Bharu.

Terengganu
In Terengganu, the weaving industry was developed around Kuala Terengganu, mainly in the Losong area of Kampung Losong Datuk Amar, Kampung Losong Panglima Perang, Kampung Losong Sekolah and Kampung Losong Masjid. There were also existence of songket weaving in the beach side villages such as Kampung Banggol, Kampung Kuala Ibai and Chendering. Evidently songket weaving existed in and Kampung Losong Masjid. There were also existence of songket weaving in the beach side villages such as Kampung Banggol, Kampung Kuala Ibai and Chendering. Evidently songket weaving existed in small villages in north of Terengganu, especially along the journey towards Kelantan. In Terengganu, songket weaving was believed to expand during the reign of Sultan Marhum Janggut or Sultan Mansur (1726-1793). As the story goes, the master weaver known as Wan Sharifah had taught her skill in kain cindai weaving to her granddaughter, Hajjah Ngah Taib. The Sultan had wanted her to weave a kain cindai, by which she had produced using some additional technique of ‘sungkit’ which is to pick and insert gold threads during the weaving process to form motifs. The gold motifs of traditional flowers stood out from the fabric, a variation from the kain cindai. This technique of embroidery was then used in all woven fabric for the Sultan and his royalties. Even some new motifs and patterns such as ‘teluk berantai’ and ‘jong sarat’ were developed specially for His Highness royal costumes.

Pahang
Kain Tenun Pahang was believed to originate from Riau or Sulawesi and brought into Pahang during the sixteeth centuries. Further research done by Dr. W. Linehan in 1722, stated that Orang Besar Bugis, Tuk Tuan, that resided in Kampung Mekasar Pekan had improved the silk weaving industry. Not much was written on the history of kain tenun Pahang although its development only began in 1904, Tengku Ampuan Mariam, who has special interest in weaving took over the development project. In 1960, a few weavers were sent to Terengganu for training to become master weavers and teach their skill to local Pahang girls. From there, the weaving industry of kain tenun Pahang started to gain public interest.